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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. But, tucked high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.