Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these tales and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
